Where is Luwuk Banggai?
OK, be honest here. I told my friends I was going off to Luwuk Banggai when I first arrived, and their collective response was basically the same: “Where the heck is that?”
Fair question, honestly. I was also asking the same to google when I searched about the best places to visit in Indonesia besides Bali
Hiding on the eastern coast of Central Sulawesi is Luwuk Banggai or some people just call them Banggai Islands, a secret gem your Instagram fueled buddy still hasn’t heard of (thank the gods). Some refer to it as the “Bali of Sulawesi” which, honestly, does the place no justice. The place is unique with its falling waterfalls, clear coral reefs, and beaches so untouched you’d think you’ve traveled way back in time.
But the issue is, getting there is… you know, an adventure. I say this in the both the thrilled and the bring-your-patience sense.
Gateway to Indonesia’s Secret Islands
Most significantly, Luwuk is your portal to the secret Banggai Islands. The city houses the city’s Bubung Airport where you should commit the code to memory: LUW, as you will definitely be using it and its port which is the gateway to the myriad tropical islands. Yes, there are hundreds; I am totally not exaggerating.
When the people say “Luwuk,” they typically refer to the entire landscape i.e the sloping mountain ranges, the waterfall with names I’m still unable to pronounce (Mokokawa, as an example), and those drop dead gorgeous islands across the sea.
This is not Bali, where you can just get off the plane and into a nice beach club. This is the real, raw Indonesia. It’s the type of place that you will snorkel with reef sharks at dawn, enjoy freshly caught fish barbecued by some guy’s uncle for lunch, and watch the sunset over a secret beach that doesn’t even exist on Google Maps.
How to Fly to Luwuk Banggai: Flight Routes & Airlines Guide
The Reality Check
And this is the reality little advertised in some garish travel text: there are no direct international flights to Luwuk. None. So if you’re traveling from outside the Indonesian border, be prepared for at least one stop and that’s being hopeful.
The bright side is that after solving the puzzle, it is quite easy.
Best Flight Routes to Luwuk Banggai: Makassar vs Palu Options
Makassar to Luwuk Banggai route
This is the way the vast majority of people travel, and rightly so. Batik Air operates around 4 flights per day from Makassar (UPG) to Luwuk. The flight’s just over an hour and fifteen minutes on the real Airbus A320 and not one of the small planes whereby you get every cubic inch of air.
Tip: Try late morning departures whenever possible. I learned the hard way that morning connections from Jakarta involve getting up at intolerable times. Besides, the Makassar airport is equipped with some decent coffee shops for the stopover, you will definitely be in need of that cup of coffee, trust me.
Alternative route through Palu
Wings Air services this route with their turboprop ATR-72 plane. Yes, it’s a propellor airplane. Though, in reality, it’s far from as terrifying as you might imagine (for the most part). The flight takes some one hour and ten minutes, and on a clear day the views are nothing short of stunning. Envision seemingly endless expanse of jungle, raging rivers, and if you’re lucky, fleeting glimpses of the coastline that will have you with your nose up against the pane in childish delight.
Jakarta & Bali to Luwuk Flight Connections
Flying in from Jakarta or Bali? Join the club. You’re probably routing through Makassar. My final leg was thus: Bali to Makassar (1.5 hours of trying not to spill wee airplane coffee), three hours stoppage in which I over-dined Makassar seafood, then Makassar to Luwuk. Door to door? Approximately 6 hours if the travel gods are smiling upon you. 23 hours if they’re not. Bring snacks or if you into fitness then a couple of protein bars!
What is unstated regarding Luwuk Airport
The airport is… cozy. And when I say cozy, I mean small. But in all honesty? Following the insanity of Jakarta’s airport, it’s wonderfully uncomplicated. You step off the airplane, take your bag from the world’s most compact baggage carousel, and ta da you’re out. The ride into town from the airport is approximately 20 minutes, during which time your driver will inevitably attempt to book your entire plans. They’re trying their best (You can just tell them you already have plans and they will not bother you again. Unlike Bali people are way more relaxed here).
Ferry to Luwuk Banggai: For the Romantic (Or the Broke)
I’ll be honest with you. The ferry isn’t for everyone. However, if you have time to spare and a spirit of adventure or perhaps you are just po.. umm a rather tight budget – the sea route offers… quite an experience.
The Gorontalo Ferry Adventure
Gorontalo to Pagimana ferry via ASDP is three times per week. The cost is around the same as that fancy Jakarta coffee (about $5-6), and the ferry takes 11 hours. Eleven freaking hours!
But what the travel blogs aren’t going to tell you is the experience is really quite lovely if you go in with the appropriate expectations. Bring along a decent book (hello good ol kindle!), some cards, some snax (yes, REAL SNAX), and be prepared to be friends with everyone on the boat. By hour three, you’re exchanging stories and homemade sambal with the grandmother from Gorontalo. By hour seven, you’re being invited to the wedding of some guy’s cousin.
When you get off the ferry and disembark at Pagimana, Luwuk is just an hour’s drive ahead. The taxi drivers, who wait assiduously at the port, know exactly where you’re headed where you will be the only tourist getting off, dusty but inappropriately grinning.
The Pelni Ships (Or Floating Hotels)
If you really want to get in touch with your inner adventurer, the Pelni boats that leave from Makassar or Manado are… interesting for the lack of better word lol. The overnight boats travel anywhere from 20 to 24 hours from Makassar. I’ve done it. Once. Just once. The sunset over the deck was totally stunning (yeah I am coping), the cabin was plain but clean, and I met some extraordinarily fascinating people. Would I do this again? Ask again after I’ve forgotten the agony of seasickness.
Overland Journey to Banggai Islands
The highway from Palu to Luwuk is about 600 kilometers of “Will this road ever end?” broken up with “Oh my god, this is beautiful.”
The Trans-Sulawesi highway presents an illusion of organization that it decidedly lacks. Imagine, if you will, zigzag mountain roads, sporadic ferry crossings, and villages where the locals pause to gaze at the rental car filled with bewildered tourists, all while breathtaking views compel you to pull over for photographs every twenty minutes.
The theoretic road trip is 12 to 15 hours. Practically? Someone I know traveled for 18 hours with a stop overnight in Ampana because you can’t travel along these roads at night as that is just asking for trouble. The bus is cheaper (about $20-25) but will add the additional 3 to 4 hours in your travel time because they stop at EVERY STOP. EVERY. STOP. I am not kidding here. I stopped counting after a dozen or so.
By car from Makassar? Unless you’re chronicling the travel of the unknown or some sort of weird penchant for bad travel, just… fly. Oh please, I beg you. It’s over 24 hours of your life that you will never see again.
When to Go (Or When Not to Go at All)
May through October is the sweet period. The seas are smooth, the sun is consistent, and the diving conditions are chef’s kiss ideal. I’ve gone in July one time and literally every single day was postcard perfect.
November to April? It’s wet season, which means two things: 1) Random afternoon downpours that appear out of nowhere, and 2) Boats bouncing around like popcorn. Some of these smaller Sulawesi islands become inaccessible, and that Instagram worthy (or tiktok?) boat trip might turn into a green faced nightmare. You’ve been warned and I am not exaggerating here!
Things I wished someone would have told me
- Advance booking of flights, especially June-August. I booked double once because I thought “How busy could Luwuk be?” Very, as I later found out.
- Download your offline maps before you leave Makassar or Palu. Cell signal can be spotty in Luwuk.
- Carry cash. Lots of cash. Though there are ATMS, they have quite the sarcastic relationship with being reliable.
- Learn how to pronounce “Bubung Airport” correctly. It will prevent you from getting bewildered expressions when inquiring the way.
- Even if you never get seasick, be sure to pack some seasickness tablets. The Sulawesi Sea is indifferent to your past experiences.
- those iconic waterfalls? Piala (Cup) Waterfall is absolutely worth all the glory. Do be sure you wear something with decent traction as I have seen people slipping there multiple times.
Is Luwuk Banggai Worth the Journey?
Is traveling to Banggai Islands straightforward? No.
Is it worth the cost? Absolutely.
The journey may challenge your patience and your stomach, should you choose to take the ferry but believe me, when you find yourself buoyed in crystal clear waters, encircled by coral reefs untouched by the throngs of mass tourism, with only the gentle sound of waves and perhaps the faint hum of a distant boat… you will completely forget that missed connection in Makassar.
Don’t forget, though, actually book your flights. Seriously. LUW (did you remember the LUWUK airport code?) to anywhere sells out quicker than you’d imagine, and being stranded in paradise is romantic until you miss your best buddy’s wedding.
Happy travels, and see you in Luwuk! (Eventually. After multiple connections. But you will get there!)
